Process for flanging hats



Feb. 19, 1935. G CIPRIANO 1,991,921

PROCESS F OR FLANGING HATS Filed Jan. 11, 1934 3 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR 667N004 F0 C/P/P/A/w ATTORNEY W 93253. s. CEPRIANO PROCESS FOR FLANGING HATS Filed Jan. 11, 1934 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Febv 19, 1935. 3. CIPRIANC) PROCESS FOR FLANGING HATS Filed Jan. 11, 1934 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR 6/W004F0 C/PR/A/m of more uniform results Patented Feb. 19, 1935 PATENT OFFICE PROCESS FOR FLANGING HATS Gandolfo Cipriano, Dongan Hills, N. Y.

Application January 11 2 Claims.

This invention relates to a process of flanging hat brims and more especially hat brims of mens felt hats. I v i l The invention has for its object the securing in the final finish of hat brims of felt hats. I

The manufacture of hats is quite a specialized industry and is'performed in several stages. The so-called blanks from which the'finishedhat is to be made roughly approximates a hat but a number of operations are required, to transform this blank into a finished hat.

. -In'my Patent No. 1,959,091, granted May 15, 1934, I have described a hat brim ironing machine in which the brim of the hat is ironed at the same time that the crown of the hat .is subjected to hydraulic pressure. The machine of said patent does away with the hand-ironing of the brim and with the so-called sand bagging of the hat after the brim has been hand-ironed.

In the present improvement, the brim of the hat is preferably iven its final shape and finish, which operation is known in the practical art as fianging, after the crown has been pressed and after the hat has been trimmed, but I employ an entirely different method of treating the hat brim. By trimming is meant the attaching of the sweat-band, the lining, if. one is used, and putting on of the ribbon.

During the manufacture ofthe hat blank the brim of the hat is impregnated more or less with some stiffening compound generally called glue in the art, and which, in the finished hat, gives to the brim a greater degree of stiffness than is desired inthe hat crown. I have found that this stiffening material does not affect allgrades and thicknesses offelt alike but I have also discovered that notwithstanding this, a very uniform finish may begiven to the brim if different temperatures are applied to different types of hat brims during the fianging step in the manufacture of a hat. When so treated the finished brim will possess the desired degree of smoothness and permanency of shape. I have also found'that this result is even better attained in some cases -when one side of the hatbrim is subjected to a require the ironing pressure to be varied along with variations in temperature in order that there may be uniformity in the appearance of the rim. 1

A further feature of the invention, therefore, 5

consists in the provision of means whereby the pressure applied to the brim ironing elements may bevaried at will. 1 1 Further features and advantages will become apparent from the following description and claims, reference being had to the accompanying drawings in which:- v

Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine embodying, among otherthings, the features above set forth; 7

Figure 2 is a section on the line 2- 2, Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a section on the line 3-3, Figure 2 turned through an angle of Figure 4 is a sectiononthe line 44, Figure .5; and

Figure 5 is a section on the line 5-5, Figure 3.

j Referring to Figure 1 of the drawings, the machine includes a supporting framework having lateral uprights 2 whose bottom portions are bolted tobifurcated castings 3, Figure 2. These, castings v25 each have anenlarged central portion 4 through which the uprights '2 extend an a nut 5 firmly secures the uprights to the castings. Upper and lower tie members 6 connect the uprights andgive the necessary rigidity to the frame structure. The lower tie members 6 consistof two rods bolt- 1 ed to the castings 3. V

A crosshead 7 is supported for sliding movement on the uprights 2 and this crosshead carries the upper brim ironing member. Movement of the crosshead is brought about by the following connections.

On each side of the center of the upper portion of the crosshead are a pair of lugs 8 to which are pivoted pitmen 9. At their upper ends these C pitmen are pivotally connected to levers 10 secured to a shaft 12 pivotally supported in bifurcated brackets 13 each suitably secured to an upright 2. "I'he opposite ends of the levers 10 are connected by tie rod 14 to which are attached 5 counter weights 15 for giving proper balance to the parts during operation of the machine. Oscillation of the shaft 12 to reciprocate the crosshead 7 is eifected by an operating lever 16 secured to the end of the shaft, Figures 1 and 2. ,50

The crosshead 7 is preferably formed as a frame, the'upper and lower members of which are centrally apertured to receive a screw l8 which passes loosely through the apertures and whose lower end is screwed. tightly into a discshaped member 19. A hand wheel 20 is provided having internal threads which fit the threads on the upper portion of the screw 18 and bosses 21 fit snugly between the upper and lower frame members of the crosshead 7. When the hand wheel 20 is turned the distance between the discshaped member 19 and the crosshead is varied. In order that the screw 18 may not turn when the hand wheel is turned, due to friction, I provide two pins 22 projecting upwardly from the member 19 and engaging the rear of the crosshead '7.

The upper brim-ironing member 24 is moved up and down with the movement of the crosshead '7 but in order to enable me to vary the pressure exerted by this ironing member on the hat'brim and also to enable me to subject said brim ironing member to varying temperatures, I do not connect the ironing member directly with the member .19 but indirectly through the following means.

Situated directly belowmember 19' is a cup shaped member 26 having four studs 27 secured in the upper portion thereof, These studs pass loosely through openings in the member 19 and a spring 28 surrounding each stud tends to separate the member 19 and 26 to the extent permittedbyv cotter pins 29. Within the cup-shaped member 26 is a heating element 30 preferably consisting of a coil through which a current of electricity may be passed to supply heat to the member 26 which may hereinafter be referred to as a heating element. This element is in direct contact with the upper brim ironing member 24 and is held in contact therewith by hooks 31 as clearly shown in Figures land 2. The upper portion of each book is provided with a wing nut 32 to enable the brim ironing member 24 to be detached from the heating element, thereby providing for the ready interchange of brim ironing elements. 'The specific construction of the brim ironing and shaping elements may be like those described in my patent hereinbefore referred to. 1

An electric conduit 33 leads to the, coil in the heating element and a switch 34, Figure 1, enables the heat ironing element to be raised to different temperatures depending upon the position of the switch, the switch being ,of conventional construction and having three positions for three different temperatures.

From ,the construction so far described, it will be aparent that I have provided means whereby the upper brim ironing member may be. subjected to controlled temperature conditions.

In the preferred form of my invention illustrated in Figures 1 to 5.1 also provide means whereby the lower brim ironing member is likewise subjected .to controlled temperature conditions and this control is brought about through a construction somewhat similar to that already described. The lower brim ironing member 35 is of dome shape as shown in Figure 5 and within its recess is located the heating element 36, said element being in direct contact with the brim ironing member, said brim ironing member merely resting upon it. An electric conduit 3'7 leads to a switch 38 which is the duplicate of the switch 34.

The pressure to which the hat brim is subject ed depends upon the adjustment of the hand wheel 20 which determines the amount of compression given to the springs 28 as will be clearly seen from Figure 2.

From the foregoing it will be clear that the tures and pressures would temperature of each brim-ironing and shaping member may be independently varied at will and that the pressure exerted by the ironing and shaping members may also be varied to suit different temperatures and brim material. It is also to be noted that the brim-ironing and shaping members 24 and 35 conform exactly to the shape which the brim of the hat is to finally assume and therefore substantially uniform pres sure is exerted throughout the brim, although this pressure may be varied as experience dictates, and various combinations of temperabe used for different thicknessesof hat brim or different qualities of material used in the brim.

The lower brim ironing member rests upon a supporting table comprising an upper member 39 and a lower member 40 spaced apart by pins 41. The lower member 40 is disc-shaped as indicated in Figure 4 and is provided with a hand-hold 42 by which the table may bemoved to the dotted line position shown in Figure 2 to enable the hats to be placed in position and removed from the press after they have been subjected to the brim ironing operation.'- This *movement of the table is preferably brought about through the medium of two parallel links43 pivoted at their lower ends to, the rods 6 respectively and at'their upper ends to a cross-rod 44 to which is likewise connected lugs 45 projecting downwardly from the member 40 of-the table. A bar 46, one'on each side, of the press, and connected tothe-bar 44, is provided with a hooked end 4'7wh'iclfengages behind a lateral upright 2 when thetable is moved forwardly. When the press is closed the projectng lugs 48 on the disc 40 engage the front side of the uprights 2 to properly limit the movements of the parts. A framework indicated generallyby 50, Figure 2, supports counterweights 51 and acts to return the table to normal poeition.

After the hat crown has been subjected to the usual hydraulic pressure to give it the proper shape and compactness and after the hat has been completely trimmed, the hat, indicated at 54 in the several figures, is placed on the lower brim ironing member while the table is in its forward position shown by dotted lines in Figure 2. The table is then moved back to the full line position shown in Figure 3. 1

For convenience in permitting the hat to be readily placed in the press and removed therefrom a band 55 of suitable material is placed within the hat and a strut 56 which may be adjustable, as is customary, serves to hold the band 55 in place. The strut also serves as a handle by which the hat may be placed in proper position. With the table in the full line position shown in Figure 2 the lever 16 is moved downwardly, thereby lowering the crosshead and with it the upper brim ironing member and its associated parts. The pressure which is to be exerted on the hat brim is determined by the tension of the springs 28, which tension may be varied by means of the hand wheel 20 The proper pres- The distance from the floor at which it is convenient to locate the table carrying the lower brim ironing member leaves a space which in the present embodiment of my invention I utilize to preliminarily heat the brim ironing members. I provide a sort of closet as it were, located between the uprights 2 as shown in Figure 1, said closet having a door 60 and being provided with shelves 61 upon which the brim ironing members which are to be used during a days work are preliminarily heated. The heat is preferably provided through means of an electrical heating element 62 of any well-known construction and the temperature of this element is controlled through a switch 64 similar in construction to the switches 34 and 38, an electrical conduit 65 connecting the switch 64 with the heating element 62. The upper shelves 61 are provided with suitable openings so that the heated air may freely circulate.

I claim:

, 1. The process of making a felt hat which consists in subjecting the hat to the usual preliminary steps including trimming and then giving to the hat brim its final shape and finish, said latter step consisting in holding the brim to the desired shape, simultaneously subjecting the brim throughout its area to pressure while so held and concomitantly subjecting each side of the brim to a temperature suitable to the brim being treated.

2. The process of making a felt hat which consists in subjecting the heat to the usual preliminary steps including trimming and then giving to the hat brim its final shape and finish, said latter step consisting in holding the brim to the desired shape, simultaneously subjecting the brim throughout its area to pressure while so held and concomitantly subjecting each side of the brim throughout its area to a temperature suitable to the brim being treated.

GANDOLFO CIPRIANO. 

